Fashion, a link between style and social advancement
We’ve witnessed it: fashion is a means to express style or identity and a powerful tool to promote social and political change. Even if, over the ages, fashion has been accused (sometimes rightly so) of being superficial, designers and brands have found it an effective channel for speaking out against injustice, defending human rights and supporting global movements – think haircuts to challenge authority, fashion shows designed to highlight essential causes and open debates about patriarchy and binary society. Fashion has been, is, and will be a tool, and like any tool, it can be used to build, advance, or destroy; that is why it is necessary to stop for a second and think about its social importance.
Fashion as a language of social struggles
Throughout history, different styles have marked political stances or cultural movements: punk as a symbol of rebellion, hippie clothes as a cry for peace, normcore optimisation of the 2000s, or the power suits of the 1980s to underline women's advancement in the workplace. Today, fashion is a sophisticated means of activism, telling stories that inspire and educate through garments or accessories and using the body as a medium of self-expression and vindication.
One of the areas where it’s had a significant impact is feminism. In its 2017 runway show, for example, Dior presented T-shirts that read ‘We Should All Be Feminists’, a direct message taken from Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie's essay. These garments not only had a global impact but also redirected profits to organisations that support gender equality. It was the beginning of the third wave of feminism. While fashion turned a profit in sales, it (also) elevated the movement to something aspirational and desirable, easing the general public into conversations previously restricted to certain spheres. Ultimately, what mattered was that everyone began to realise that equality was for all.
Fashion and LGTBIQ+ rights
The LGTBIQ+ collective has been one of the great forerunners of fashion, with its members being key in advancing many trends. Design geniuses such as Vivienne Westwood, Mugler, Walter van Beirendonck, Alexander McQueen, Christopher Bailey for Burberry, Raf Simmons or Thom Browne have created collections where everything queer is made visible and celebrated; from giving space to oppressed collectives to blurring the lines between genders by changing the traditional uses of skirts and suits, they have been the spearhead of many demands that would end up permeating society.
Let's go further into the struggle and activism. There’ve been iconic characters who have changed entire paradigms, sometimes by exposing themselves and moving the boundaries between aesthetics, genders and norms imposed by the hegemonic culture. Hunter Schafer, with her role in Euphoria and her campaigns for Prada or her appearance in the Pirelli calendar or Alex Consani winning the Model of the Year award at only 21 years old, have been, among many other personalities, examples of how reality is changing to be more inclusive thanks to the relentless work of many. They have given their all to pave the way for others who will come after them, in the same way that pioneers such as April Ashley, Tracey Norman, Teri Toye or Caroline Cossey did. As JW Anderson says in an interview with Vogue: ‘Fashion has to get to a point where we stop having to talk about gender’.
During Pride Month, many brands simply put up the LGTBIQ+ flag as their profile picture to jump on the bandwagon and not appear insensitive. However, many other brands launch special editions to raise funds for organisations that fight discrimination and support the community. For instance, Savage X Fenty, singer Rihanna's lingerie brand, challenges traditional gender norms and celebrates bodies of all types. It’s taken time, but now fashion is looking for unexpected diversity.
Environmental activism on the catwalk
Sustainability has also become another social initiative in which fashion has much to say. Five years ago, the biggest names in the fashion industry (Adidas, Burberry, Chanel, H&M, Inditex, Nike, Prada, Kering...) signed a document called the ‘Fashion Pact’ at a G7 summit in Biarritz, the central theme of which was climate change. There, they committed themselves to reducing their harmful impact on the environment and greenhouse gas emissions; it would be interesting to know, five years later, how they have managed to do so or if they are on the right track, as they promised before the pandemic.
For example, designers such as Stella McCartney have committed themselves to sustainable feminism, promoting equality through ethical fashion and environmental responsibility, demonstrating that women's rights are intrinsically linked to the struggle for a fairer world. Undeniably, the commitment to a more sustainable business model is something all firms are thinking about, particularly when, at times and in certain brands, fashion involves an unfair exploitation of natural and human resources. No one seems to have the perfect solution. Ending the production of collections that become obsolete every two weeks? Sanctioning those companies that do not comply with the minimum requirements of sustainability? Making consumers aware of the actual practices of each brand? The options are many and varied.
Inspiration for change
We have always dressed to reflect who we are and what we think; from cultural symbols to taking off our bras for women's freedom, from the upper class' clothes to the working class' overalls, clothes have never been just ‘clothes’. Fashion brings up issues important to society; it brings them to the table by uniting people around them through a universal language, i.e. aesthetics. Garments are not only something to crave after but also canvases for ideas, grievances and politics; whether through feminist messages, LGTBIQ+ inclusivity, sustainability or support for local causes, fashion is proving that a simple dress can be the start of a revolution.
